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PILSNER URQUELL

Beer Book — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 12:33:21 +0000

SABMiller
Czech Republic, 4.4% ABV

Another claimant to being the original pilsner beer, Pilsner Urquell (that’s ur-kwell, pronunciation fans) was first brewed in 1842 in Pilsen – the Czech town from which the name pilsner derives – by Josef Groll, a man so admirably bad-tempered he was described as the ‘coarsest man in the whole of Bavaria’. As Bob Dylan is to every yowling busker, this is the stuff that every two-bob placebo lager is trying to emulate. And, being 160-odd years old, Urquell have had plenty of time to impose stipulations that would make the taxman blush. First of all, they demand Pilsner Urquell should never be consumed straight from the bottle, as you won’t release the full crisp flavour or floral aroma. So get a glass. Next, rinse that glass with cold water for at least five seconds to get it to 7°C with a maximum variance of plus or minus 1°C, and then, using a protractor and some very patient friends, hold the bottle at a 45° angle and the glass almost horizontally. Now pour, if you can still be bothered. Be careful, though, as interrupted pouring can cause what they describe as a beer with a ‘bald spot’ and a ‘cauliflower’ head, or what the layman would call a pint that looks like Lawrence Dallaglio after a nine-try hammering. It’s a damn fine beer, but, Lord, what a carry on. Is it any wonder that the fuss-free imitators have nipped in and pinched their market? MJ

PEETERMAN ARTOIS

Beer Book — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 12:32:29 +0000

InBev
Belgium, 4% ABV

Although it may be relatively new to these shores, Peeterman Artois, named after St Peeter, the patron saint of Leuven, was first brewed in 1794 as the original flagship beer of the Artois Brewery. It was discontinued in the 1950s, but then revived in the UK in late 2006 as a light premium beer made from wheat, barley, malt and coriander (although I’m not so sure coriander has ever been an ingredient particularly demanded by beer drinkers). It has a lower ABV than Stella, and has perhaps been introduced as a response to Stella’s unfortunate association with alcoholic aggression. At a sensible 4%, Peeterman should hopefully avoid Stella’s fate of being bestowed with a notorious spouse-abusing nickname. A posh bar font and classy stemmed glasses will no doubt help Peeterman satisfy the more upmarket drinker. Brasserie Artois had previously introduced Artois Bock to the UK at a hefty 6.2%, and they also brew Stella Artois NA (biere sans alcohol), so the Artois family now caters for a broad range of alcoholic needs. Peeterman itself turns out to be an undemanding beer in all areas, light to the point of watery, not particularly unpleasant, but just rather boring. It’s obviously an Artois response to Beck’s Vier, another 4% variety of a leading brand, and there is a suspicion that the big brewers are seeking to capitalise on the UK’s longer drinking hours and weakness for binge drinking. Containing 23% less alcohol than Stella, Peeterman is a beer they want you to buy one more of. HC

PERONI NASTRO AZZURO

Beer Book — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:04:48 +0000

SABMiller
Italy, 5.1%

There is something unerringly addictive about Peroni’s ‘blue ribbon’ bottled lager, and it is not all to do with the taste. As you stand poised at the bar of a traditional Italian watering hole – because of course there is no better way to sup at ‘Italy’s finest’ – and the first mouthful sparkles on the tongue you might wonder what all the fuss is about, which calls for an immediate examination of the bottle; herein lies the charm. In true Italian nature, everything about a bottle of Peroni, from its requisite royal blue, white and crimson red label brought to life against the green bottle, to its fitted, sleek design like a classic cut suit, is fashionable and instils a sense of opulence in its temporary owner and ‘brings out the Italian in you’. The packaging design, by Brand Union, was themed ‘effortless Italian style’. Peroni even showed their arrogance, I mean nous, for style for a brief time during the 2006 World Cup when classic shots of Italy’s starting 11s from various International tournaments hugged the bottles – arguably the most retro wallpaper on a bottled beer ever. The bottle is so good, you’d be crazy to order a pint of the stuff, even if it probably does taste better from draught. Who would have thought drinking a certain type of beer would be a statement of style? And its style has brought success – Nastro Azzurro was the UK’s fastest growing beer brand in 2007. Interestingly, the Italians themselves prefer Peroni Red, a 4.7% ABV bestseller in its home country. JW