Shepherd Neame
Holland 4.1% ABV
 
It’s claimed that Oranjeboom (that’s Oran-ye-boam) has been around since 1671, although the beer hardly boasts a proud heritage. While blessed with a majestic concept – Oranjeboom literally translates as ‘Orange Tree’, symbolising the royal family tree of William of Orange – it is often regarded as the runt of the Dutch beer litter, behind Heineken and Amstel. Indeed, a bar sporting a big Oranjeboom sign is usually a dump, and a good place to see the extremes of the Dutch national characteristic of warmth and congeniality towards foreigners, mixed with utter hatred of each other. Evidence? Count the team-wrecking squabbles that have seen a premature exit from every World Cup and Euro tournament since year dot. In 1973, Oranjeboom suffered the ultimate indignity of being replaced by the Skol brand, which, while being unrelated to the economy lager of the same name brewed today by Carlsberg-Tetley, was still a regal kick in the goolies. As in other countries, however, the Skol name ensured mocking laughter and commercial failure, and the Oranjeboom name was restored in 1982. So how does it taste? Whether it’s the 5% Dutch Dommelsche Bierbrouwerij original or the 4.1% British version brewed under licence by Shepherd Neame, Oranjeboom is not unpleasant, just a bit bland. Experts point to a cardboard box nose, a sweet hoppy taste and a metallic finish, which is just an elaborate way of saying that it’s completely indistinguishable from any old mass-market swill. It’s good with curry, though. MJ